Frontier Islands: Exploring the Mergui Archipelago

Two new resorts in the remote Mergui Archipelago offer luxe bases from which to explore the pristine and largely uncharted enclave

Barely 20 years ago, the Mergui Archipelago was hidden from the world, its 800 or so tropical islands off the coast of southern Myanmar uninhabited by humans, except for small populations of Moken, also known as ‘sea gypsies’, taking shelter during the monsoon months before returning to their nomadic life on the water. Since then, intrepid travellers have slowly begun to trickle in, mostly on sailing and diving charters, though even today most people would struggle to pinpoint the enclave on a map.

In 2018, however, two resorts opened in the archipelago — Wa Ale and Awei Pila — each on its own private island, introducing a type of wild luxury not previously seen in these parts. Imagine Bali, but with whiter sand; or a jungle-covered Maldives; or Phuket, its nearest neighbour, without the tourists and tat. Add to it dramatic karst formations, crystal water, pristine mangrove forests, deserted beaches and an abundance of flora and fauna, and Mergui is ripe for sustainable discovery.

Getting to the archipelago requires effort, either flying from Myanmar’s capital Yangon, or crossing by car and ferry from Thailand to the border town of Kawthaung, followed by an almost two-hour speedboat ride to either resort. The approach to Wa Ale only hints at what’s in store. Depending on the tides, guests either alight at a jetty or go toes-first into a shallow mangrove bay. A short buggy ride through evergreen forest leads to the big reveal: a grand pavilion with soaring timber ceiling, thatched roof and stone walls, and the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea beyond.

From the dining pavilion and sundowner shack to the three treehouses and 11 tented villas, the entire resort was built and assembled by hand. No trees were felled or heavy machinery used, and recycled and reclaimed materials are used throughout. It reflects owners Chris and Farina Kingsley’s vision for a sustainable beach-meets-safari-chic getaway, where a portion of net profits and of room revenue goes to a conservation and education foundation.

Thanks to its location within the Lampi Marine National Park, the only such conservation area in Myanmar, Wa Ale is a haven for wild land and marine life, and guests can discover the island and its surrounds through guided jungle hikes, kayaking through mangrove forests, and snorkelling or diving little-explored reefs.

Also good for divers is Awei Pila, with a fledgling house reef suitable for beginners. Backed by Burmese tycoon Serge Pun, the resort offers a more familiar holiday experience compared to Wa Ale. Designed by architect Daniel West, it has a fan-shaped infinity pool, and there are plans to add pool villas, a wellness centre and sunset bar.

For now, 24 air-conditioned yurts line the beautiful beachfront or nestle among trees. Interiors are crisp and modern, with light woods, cream fabrics and furniture custom- made to fit the circular structure; the bedhead, writing desk, wardrobe and curtain rails all curve. But of course, the best spot to be is outside, on a sunbed, looking out to the dreamy horizon.

Text / Kee Foong