Entrecôte Updated

In reworking Melbourne’s Parisian cafe and steakhouse Entrecôte, Brahman Perera drew on nostalgic references and an uplifting palette, presenting a transformation of the iconic venue as it emerges from Victoria’s lockdown

The iconic Entrecôte takes its name from the original 1950s Le Relais De L'Entrecôte, the famous one-dish steakhouse in Porte-Maillot, Paris. Overlooking the Royal Botanic Gardens in the building that once housed Melbourne favourite Lynch's, Entrecôte has become a stalwart in the city’s hospitality scene.

In the context of this year’s exceptional challenges, restaurateur Jason M Jones has cleverly and courageously pivoted the business to embrace new opportunities. Responding tactfully to COVID-related restrictions, Jones converted Entrecôte’s Domain Road frontage into a quaint Parisian corner store and has since developed a signature at-home dining experience and a picnic version, as well as ensuring that a range of Entrecôte products are now available at good food stores across the city. While these measures have kept the institution nimble, responsive and, most importantly, solvent, their most exciting undertaking has arguably been the refresh of the restaurant’s characterful interior.

Jones and designer Brahman Perera, who is also his partner, sought to celebrate the signature eclecticism of Entrecôte while marking the start of a new chapter with a daring and inventive design sensibility. ‘I’m very drawn to the contour lines and cut-out works of Henri Matisse,’ says Perera. ‘They’re so exuberant and joyous. More than anything, I wanted the interior to reflect an optimistic spirit and a similar sense of energy.’

Swathes of verdant green, a custom hue developed in collaboration with boutique manufacturer Porter’s Paints, gives immediate impact, while subtle layering and nuances between spaces reveals deeper considerations. ‘Given that the building was originally a single residence, each room is designed to have its own personality,’ Perera says.

The front dining room is boldly banded in crisp white and green, suggesting a lively French conservatory style. Contemporary art, hand-painted napery and striking plaster light fittings, skilfully crafted by Perera himself, add a playful overlay. ‘We’re not fine dining, we’re dining finely,’ Jones says with a laugh. ‘We’re tongue-in-cheek, raucous, approachable, fun and open all hours.’

The adjoining dining room assumes a quieter, more delicate sensibility. Dining settings are gently framed by a floral frieze hand-painted by Perera in a subtle nod to his muse, Matisse. This graphic, artistic quality plays against the traditional patterning of the French toile lining the bay windows and the detailed ornamentation of the heritage building.

Perera’s unwavering penchant for placemaking sees the interiors finished with delightful arrangements of reclaimed and historic pieces. ‘I’m obsessed with the Thursday auctions at Leonard Joel,’ Perera confesses. ‘I’ve collected pieces for Entrecôte as one curates items for their own home.’ Indeed, these personal touches, including a tiered-glass chandelier, assemblage of hand-glazed plates, brass candlesticks and chinoiserie vessels show the artful eye of the designer, while crafting a warm and welcoming space.

While Entrecôte has masterfully adjusted to shifting circumstances, the revived interior represents a beacon of hope for Melbourne’s hospitality scene. As we emerge from lockdown and welcome the warmer months, the fresh face of this institution presents a bright addition. ‘It’s verdant, calming, botanic and layered,’ says Perera. ‘We can’t wait to re-open our doors and present this fresh outlook to new and returning guests’.

Text / Hayley Curnow
Images / Lillie Thompson (interiors and portrait) and Ricky Sam (food)