Island Hopping in El Nido

Island Hopping in El Nido

The islands in the Philippines known as El Nido (meaning ‘The Nest’) were named by the Spanish in the 18th century and are so pristine it feels as though they’ve hardly been visited since

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We’re gliding through clear blue skies and the theme song of the TV show Giligan’s Island is playing in my head. Even from the sky, the Bacuit archipelago and its clear waters are  mesmerising. These islets on the northern tip of mainland Palawan are lush and verdant, and in some places surrounded by white sand that offers numerous tiny, secluded beaches.

The dramatic mountainous landscape is in view as we disembark the small aircraft and make our way across the tarmac. Then it’s jungle almost all the way to the private jetty where our 45 minute outrigger ride to Miniloc island resort begins. ‘Transported’ takes on its less literal meaning during the voyage, especially since my initial point of embarkment was Hong Kong. The two worlds could not be closer and yet further apart.

Our small boat edges around a rocky limestone outcrop just as the sun begins to dip and the resort, cradled in a shallow bay below two dramatic peaks, appears before us. A series of individual stilted villas with thatched roofs appears conga line-like in the shallow water to port, while a small jetty, bar and restaurant come into focus starboard-side. 

Miniloc island resort, one of four sister properties run by the El Nido Resorts group, is an eco-discovery getaway like no other. The accommodations have a relaxed coastal village atmosphere, while the environs are peaceful and home to pristine biodiversity that offers guests a choice of daily activities including snorkeling, coral reef diving, kayaking, lagoon tours, island-hopping (to name but a few) — or absolutely nothing at all.  

On a single day of island-hopping, my companions and I visited Vigan Island (better known as Snake Island), where we spotted schools of striped sergeant majors and the only sounds to be heard were the persistent lapping of waves and the shrill cacophony of invisible cicadas, before moving on to the Cudugnon Cave and then the scenic Pinagbuyutan island, where parts of the reality TV show Survivor have been filmed. Some visitors understandably chose to spend the day here and even camp overnight, while our itinerary ended with a barbecue lunch on Entalula island, where the oceans’s natural ombre of dark cobalt through to iridescent aqua against the powdery white shores seemed more dramatic than on other islands. Back on Miniloc for happy hour, we watched a flock of Palawan hornbills chatter as they fly overhead and crabs scuttle and dart across the sand silently in the safety of twilight.

 For years my Filippino friends had encouraged me to visit Palawan, extolling its beauty. Had I known that this is what awaited, I would have made the journey sooner. But with so much more to explore, there’s no doubt I’ll be returning soon.

Words / Suzy Annetta
Images / RR Barretto

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